Indonesian dream!

I already posted this video before, but I don't mind to share it again. Every time I see it, it makes me feel free and remind me of how exceptional this trip was. I went to Bali, than to Lombok and finished the trip with a few days in the famous G-land surf break. And on the way I met such special people, like a fugitive whom had to runaway from his country because of a false accusation but wouldn't hurt anyone, and missed his daughters a lot. Super friendly Lukas whom we surfed together a lot, a young couple on their tenth month of honeymoon. I will never forget Papa Paul and the lovely Lombok locals from Tri-putri! There on the way to the surf we used to go through this little local villages a give candies to the kids. A lot of love was shared in this trip!

A new look for a new year

Very happy new year to everyone, freedom, happiness, joy and peace are my wishes to all of you!

Today's Society

The influence of technology in our society is not just big. For quite some time now we've been worrying about movies and the influence it as on people. But now with the iPhones and iPads and MacBooks people get very social all around the world, they just forget about getting social around the table. So if you are "ridding" this with friends around you, drop the device and play some cards!

Nypussi!

 The name of this Mentawai wave, Nypussi, Comes from the Japanese name for Japan, pronounced "Nypon" and the fact that the first person to ever surf this wave was a Japanese girl. This photo was taken by Aleister from Byron Bay, it turns out that I had met him two years ago on my first trip to Byron and we found each other surfing on that spot. Far, far away from each others home. I met him yesterday again as I came back to Byron bay, we had a barbecue with some of the locals.
 I found the world really small on this Indonesian trip as Aleister wasn't the only surprise I had. I was at the same homestay as Cesar Rosa's cousin who didn't surf but was just there on holiday with her husband. Cesar and I used to compete together when we were younger. Then I met a Brazilian guy, Daniel, when I told him where from I was, he told me he had a friend from Portugal called San and had dreadlocks, at this moment I just laughed. We had spent the summer working together San and I, we became close friends as we met in autralia and helped each other, two years ago. During this summer San told me about this Daniel from Brazil, whom he had met in Byron bay some time ago, and whom he was going to visit in Brazil on his next trip.
 When my plan was to go to Byron Bay after the Mentawai, I meet one Byron local called Alister, plus Daniel a really close friend of San, they whom had met in Byron. Was I meant to be and go somewhere else in the world at that time?

Viajar, porque?

Nao podia dizer melhor! Texto tirado de papodevelejador.blogspot.com

"...Um homem precisa viajar. Por sua conta, não por meio de histórias, livros ou TV. Precisa viajar por si, com seus olhos e pés, para entender o que é seu, para um dia plantar as suas próprias árvores e dar-lhes valor. Conhecer o frio para desfrutar o calor, e o oposto. Sentir a distância e o desabrigo para estar bem sob o seu próprio teto. Um homem precisa viajar para lugares que não conhece para quebrar essa arrogância que nos faz ver o mundo como o imaginamos, e não simplesmente como é ou pode ser; que nos faz professores e doutores do que não vimos, quando deveríamos ser alunos, e simplesmente ir ver..."

Amir Klink

Fim do verão com amigos

Filmamos esta surfada entre amigos, daquelas surfadas que ficam raras mas que continuam vivas. Joao Silva, Mikael Toesca, Miguel Duwe, Paulo Almeida, Basile Belime, Peggy Webster, e mais amigos. Surfar souzinho é melhor do que cheio de crowd, mas quando ta cheio de amigos até damos ondas aos outros com um sorriso na cara.

The Mentawai jungle

 Crossing the jungle, 1 hour walk through coconuts and bridges to get to the surf!

On the way, locals were smoking coconuts, apparently the threes belongs to someone who exports the fruit. They also produce coconut milk and coconut oil!

And when we finally get to surf, this clean walls of waves were expecting us!