sexta-feira, 30 de novembro de 2012


 The name of this Mentawai wave, Nypussi, Comes from the Japanese name for Japan, pronounced "Nypon" and the fact that the first person to ever surf this wave was a Japanese girl. This photo was taken by Aleister from Byron Bay, it turns out that I had met him two years ago on my first trip to Byron and we found each other surfing on that spot. Far, far away from each others home. I met him yesterday again as I came back to Byron bay, we had a barbecue with some of the locals.
 I found the world really small on this Indonesian trip as Aleister wasn't the only surprise I had. I was at the same homestay as Cesar Rosa's cousin who didn't surf but was just there on holiday with her husband. Cesar and I used to compete together when we were younger. Then I met a Brazilian guy, Daniel, when I told him where from I was, he told me he had a friend from Portugal called San and had dreadlocks, at this moment I just laughed. We had spent the summer working together San and I, we became close friends as we met in autralia and helped each other, two years ago. During this summer San told me about this Daniel from Brazil, whom he had met in Byron bay some time ago, and whom he was going to visit in Brazil on his next trip.
 When my plan was to go to Byron Bay after the Mentawai, I meet one Byron local called Alister, plus Daniel a really close friend of San, they whom had met in Byron. Was I meant to be and go somewhere else in the world at that time?

2 comentários:

  1. Isso é a pior onda das Mentawais, ehheh. Burger world tb é fraca, ok. Boas ondas!

    1. Pois Brek, infelizment quando nao ha swell sao os unicos recursos. Abraço Algarvio ;)